Around Manila

Metro Manila, Philippines

Introduction
Metro Manila is the regional capital of the Philippines and is set on Luzon Island with a population of over 10 million.

Makati skyline

There's no getting around the fact that Metro Manila is an unattractive city. It's no coincidence that tourist brochures push the beautiful sunset over Manila Bay - with the city totally out of view. It is overcrowded, polluted and chaotic with highly visible poverty and crime. Visitors will need to take extra care of their valuables. Security is also an issue and the recent spate of bombings in the region has made bag, package and car trunk inspections normal routine in all major establishments.

Metro Manila is not an ideal tourist destination. There are pitifully few attractions and unless you're interested in local colonial history, might not really be worth the trouble. Sidewalks - when there are any - are dirty and make the streets unfavourable to walking, while horrendous traffic makes going around the city an ordeal. The place is one big haphazard metropolis where glitzy buildings and enclosed mansions are sometimes just a stone's throw away from poverty-stricken areas.

That said, Manila is a unique city with a lot of personality and character. After the initial slap in the face visitors will find a vibrant metropolis, full of life and surprises. It's a great place to party with the happy-go-lucky Filipinos before you head out to the beauty and relaxation of the Philippines beyond.

Attractions

Rizal Monument at Luneta

There are a few interesting Spanish colonial remnants in the capital and major ones can all be visited in less than a day. Most are churches which form the focal point of passionate worship for the predominantly Catholic population.

Dating back to 1571, Intramuros, the walled city, marks the original capital. The seat of the Spanish colonial government, Intramuros still has some traces of European architecture in its reconstructed cobblestone streets. Some structures survived the ceaseless pummelling of WWII when much of it was reduced to rubble. Since restored and featuring a few interesting buildings, Intramuros is the only area of charm in Metro Manila and in cooler weather could be an enjoyable stroll.

Within Intramuros is the strategically important Fort Santiago, prison of Dr Jose Rizal who was executed by Spain for rebellion in 1896. Exhibits connected with the national hero are displayed within the Rizal Shrine. During the Japanese Occupation the photogenic Fort housed torture chambers where countless prisoners of war were killed.

Other buildings within Intramuros include the understandably mundane cathedral - destroyed and rebuilt five times, with the new version built in 1958, and Casa Manila, a furnished 19th century Spanish mansion complete with period antiques.

Outside the walled city is Rizal Park or Luneta, a great place to people-watch in relatively fume-free air. It is full of vendors, lovers, photographers, prostitutes, and faith healers. At 7.30 p.m. the park features a light and sound show of Rizal's execution. Rizal is buried at the Rizal Monument, the park's centrepiece.

Manila City lights

Government buildings in the park's vicinity were built during the American Period at the turn of the last century and designed along classical lines. Among these are the Department of Tourism, where you can get copies of tourist brochures, and the newly refurbished National Museum which houses Filipino cultural, historical and natural artefacts and documents. Behind it, the Museum of the Philippine People is recommended for an overview of Philippine life and culture. Other museums in the area, Museo Pambata (Children's Museum) and Metropolitan Museum, are worth a quick look if you want something else to visit while in the area.

The Malacanang Palace, official residence of the Republic's President has a museum of presidential portraits and memorabilia along with other historical items. Interesting displays here used to be Imelda Marcos' infamous three thousand pairs of shoes, and other glimpses at how the dictator Ferdinand Marcos and family lived off the country's coffers in royal luxury. Otherwise the museum is somewhat boring unless Philippine history excites you.

The culturally inclined will appreciate the Cultural Centre of the Philippines in Pasay. This arts centre contains exhibition halls, museums and performing arts theatres.

Quiapo is not your regular tourist attraction but is definitely the district that has the most character. Famous landmark is the once-impressive baroque Quiapo Church, now just a dull cement building due to a well-meaning but badly-executed restoration. Lots to see here: Chinese and Muslim merchants manning all sorts of shops and stalls, Catholic devotees in fervent prayer, lines of fortune tellers near sidewalk stalls selling images of Catholic saints alongside folk talismans and Buddhist charms. The place is crowded, and some parts very seedy but if you fancy seeing Manila as the common folk know it and don't mind socialising with the hoi polloi, then Quiapo will give you a feel of the city you won't find in any museum.

Tourist Information Offices
Tourist Information Offices are located at Ninoy Aquino International Airport and in Rizal Park, close to the skating rink.

Entertainment and Eating Out
Lively Metro Manila lacks nothing when it comes to having a party. It's very much a night city brimming with bars, nightclubs, karaoke joints, discos, live music and pubs.

Although much of it has been cleaned up, only Bangkok can rival Metro Manila's liberal night scene. The freewheeling red light districts are centred mainly around Ermita, Malate and Pasay. The capital also has broad choice of cosmopolitan restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets and the food is generally good.

The tourist belt is loosely based around Ermita and Malate and offers many restaurants and bars that range from the hip and trendy to the downright sleazy. The area presents a very wide variety of cuisine: spiffy French and Spanish restaurants among traditional Chinese dim sum and noodle houses, as well as Indian, African and Mediterranean places. Some eateries in the area may look like holes-in-the-wall but can be surprising finds. Generally, a quick look at the clientele will tell you if the place is worth trying.

Nightlife in Manila

Chinatown's many tea and noodle houses may not look snazzy but the food is decent and the atmosphere is non-touristy. In Intramuros, the established Ilustrado is an excellent restaurant that serves Spanish and Filipino cuisine. Superb dining is also available in top hotels in the Makati and Malate areas.

In the upmarket business district of Makati, Glorietta, Greenbelt, The Fort and Rockwell Centre are the fashionable places for entertainment, dining and shopping. Jupiter Street has a considerable number of good quality restaurants and bars, and the area along Makati Avenue, Kalayaan and P Burgos streets are dotted with nightclubs.

A twenty minute drive away, El Pueblo and the Strip in Ortigas Centre, Mandaluyong are lively places at night, with coffee shops and bars filled to the brim on weekend nights.

In Quezon City, the tourist hub is centred around Tomas Morato Avenue. The street is literally lined with familiar international franchises as well as stylish local bars and restaurants which serve cuisine almost as varied as that in Malate. Mama Rosa, located right beside the street's roundabout serves local dishes in a refreshingly non-traditional atmosphere. Nearby West and Timog Avenues are also known for their restaurants and bars.

The city's newest happening spot is Eastwood City in Libis, Quezon City. The commercial complex has more than its fair share of up-and-coming restaurants, but it's best to be picky as some can disappoint. The bars and clubs in the Libis area are mostly frequented by the young, sophisticated college set.

The ubiquitous fish-ball hawker stands are fixtures in almost every city street. They sell fried balls of all sorts - squid, fish chicken, etc - skewered onto barbeque sticks. Some also sell hard-boiled eggs fried in batter and banana-cues, fried bananas coated with caramelised sugar. At night, they're joined by stalls that sell barbequed innards. Safety is uncertain, but if you must try these stick to the franchised stalls.

Shopping

Fine dining in the Metro

Manila isn't really a shopping destination but offers fairly decent shopping nonetheless. Visitors will notice armed security guards keeping homeless out of aircon malls, banks and even burger bars.

Up-market malls like Glorietta 4, Greenbelt, Town Centre, Powerplant, and Podium carry a multitude of designer boutiques. Other notable shopping malls are the SM and Robinson's Malls dotted around the capital.

There are literally tons of shops in Greenhills Shopping Centre, a popular mall-cum-flea market complex just a short drive from the Ortigas Centre business district. Shops here offer a plethora of computers, jewellery, and clothes. Araneta Centre in Cubao though not as fashionable gives a glimpse of how shopping destinations looked like in Manila before gigantic malls took over the scene. The shops there, though, might be of more interest to locals.

The wholesale/retail market of Divisoria is without doubt THE place for bargains. Divisoria is crowded with shops selling clothes, fabrics, toys, kitchen ware, home dcor and almost everything else. Tutuban Centre Mall in the heart of Divisoria is definitely not run-of-the-mill as it was converted from a turn-of-the-century train station. Wrought-iron columns and lattice work, and red brick masonry give it a unique air, at least on the outside. Inside, the mall carries just the usual shops. The neighbouring multi-storey 'cluster' malls are a dizzying maze of small shops where one can haggle.

Nearby Ilaya and Tabora streets are what locals call the 'real' Divisoria. The markets and stalls here are for the more adventurous shoppers. Most stalls have illegally encroached on the sidewalks and streets and duty inspections by patrols are an amusing highlight of the day, with vendors packing up in less than a minute, leaving the formerly jam-packed street almost deserted. The place is littered, crowded and frequently foul-smelling, but if you're a shopper who enjoys dirt-cheap bargains, this is for you. However, it's best to shop in Divisoria with a local who knows the place, otherwise you'd end up lost and almost surely gypped.

Quiapo is another local bargain centre with relatively cleaner and more organised street markets, particularly along Carriedo, Villalobos and Hidalgo streets. Wares are similar to those in Divisoria, but you can take in a little whiff of the old Manila atmosphere while you're there as it's in one of the city's oldest shopping districts. The place is also known for its bargain electronic parts and systems, and for local handicrafts which are sold in shops under the nearby bridge. Again, best shop here with a local.

Note: security is an issue. On the streets travellers will need to keep their wits about them, Metro Manila is notorious for crime - particularly pick pocketing.

Cyber Manila
Internet cafes are widespread and rates are very competitive. There is no particular cyber district, Internet cafes are found every 4 or 5 blocks or so.

Getting From A to B

Manila City Hall from the Intramuros Golf Course

Metro Manila has poor infrastructure and terrible traffic. Getting around can be frustrating - 40% of the country's vehicles are squashed into Metro Manila's generally poorly planned and maintained roads. Bad policing does not help and commuters can wait up to 2 hours for transport at rush hour. Most forms of travel are chaotic and uncomfortable.

The MRT (Mass Rail Transit) along EDSA, Manila's most famous highway, and the much older LRT (Light Rail Transit) along the city's other major avenues, provide the fastest ways to traverse the city - above the traffic-ridden thoroughfare. It can get crowded and the destinations are limited but it's easy to use and much faster than taking on the clogged streets below.

The most obvious form of travel are the flamboyantly decorated and dirt-cheap jeepneys. These ridiculous-looking but invaluable vehicles run along almost all major roads of the city, with routes plastered on their colourful sides or windscreens. Catching one is a hectic and confusing affair - lucky passengers get a seat rather than dangling out of the back.

Buses provide a cheap but slow and uncomfortable way to crawl around the city. The neglected buses only cover the main transit points. A few aircon buses exist on selected routes.

Bicycles with fitted sidecars, pedicabs, are handy for short distances. Tricycles, the motorcycle equivalent, provide a cheaper although bumpier alternative to taxis. Both are found only along minor roads, usually near residential areas.

Traditional horse-drawn carriages, kalesa, are still common in some parts of Manila, particularly in Quiapo, Divisoria and Intramuros, and are a novel way to get around but expose passengers to the elements and the fumes.

A hotel car pick-up is the least stressful way to get to and from a hotel, but certainly not the cheapest. Driving a hire car would require a good knowledge of Metro Manila's alarming roads and traffic.

The Pasig River flows west through the city although its smell meanders wherever it wants. Riverboats take passengers from Guadalupe to Lawton, with Supercats providing air-conditioned comfort - highly recommended for those with sensitive noses.

The variable ferries connect Manila to other major cities and islands. Ramshackle old tubs and luxury liners depart from the North Harbour.

The totally confusing and disorganised Ninoy Aquino International Airport has two terminals connected to major international cities, 15 minutes from the CBD without unforeseen gridlock. Centennial Airport nearby caters for Philippine Airlines only with both international and domestic wings

Shopping in Manila

Tours
The fortified island garrison Corregidor features ruined barracks, bunkers and artilleries from WWII. Interesting presentations and noble memorials outline the long history of the strategic base. Tours are available, but book in advance and avoid going in the rainy season. The ferry station to the island is located right behind the Cultural Centre of the Philippines.

The Spanish colonial San Jose church in Las Pias houses the 1824 Bamboo Organ - the only one in the world. Much further south an hour from Manila is Taal Volcano, an interesting geological formation. A large volcanic crater-lake contains a small volcanic island. This in turn has a small lake, green due to chemical activity. Tagaytay Ridge provides a fine lakeside view of restless Taal. Tagaytay is a popular retreat for locals and is crowded on holidays and weekends.

Outdoor enthusiasts will appreciate a 3-hour trip Southeast of Manila to the scenic Pagsanjan Falls plunging from a gorge. Boat rides take rafters through wild rapids.

Not surprisingly, there are no good beaches or dive sites around Metro Manila. Dive trips can however be arranged from the capital to Anilao in Batangas, 3 hours away. Almost 30 dive sites with coral slopes and gardens are best visited from November to June when the seas are calm.

For those not in a hurry, a visit to the Calabarzon areas is recommended. Calabarzon is an acronym for five nearby provinces south of Metro Manila: Cavite, Laguna, Batangas, Rizal and Quezon. Cavite and Laguna, famous for their native handicrafts and delicacies, are historic and feature many old monuments, churches and shrines, and also has resorts, particularly in Los Baos. Batangas is famous for its beaches, while Rizal and Quezon, with their share of popular old churches, are well-known for their local artisans and colourful Higante and Pahiyas festivals.

A little less than an hour north of Manila is the Biak-na-Bato National Park in San Miguel, Bulacan. Promoted as a destination for nature lovers, the place is also historical, having been the hide-out of revolutionary forces near the end of the Spanish period. While there, tourists can also drop by Malolos and visit Barasoain Church, a drawing of which is found at the back of the ten-peso bill. The church is a historical shrine, being the site, in 1899, of the first constitutional convention of the newly-founded Philippine Republic.

Events
In Quiapo, 9th January the Feast of the Black Nazarene, a huge event, honours the Black Nazarene statue of Christ. Believed to have miraculous powers, the centuries-old image drifts around the district on a sea of devotees clambering to touch the float.

On 15th January the Sto Nino Festival features a parade of hundreds of Sto Niño Images in Tondo Manila. Street dancing is one of the highlights of the cheerful procession.

Chinese New Year bursts into life at the end of January or the beginning of February with lion dances and a deafening explosion of fireworks.

In May a colourful festival, Santacruzan is celebrated around the capital. Remembering the search and discovery by Queen Helena of the Holy Cross, it is a hybrid of religious processions and beauty pageants.

San Juan witnesses a line of decorated carriages on 24th June for the Feast of St John the Baptist. Townsfolk erupt into a water fight and drench all passers-by echoing Christ's baptism by John the Baptist.

Pateros honours St Martha on 29th July in the Pasuba Sa Ilog. According to legend she saved the town by driving out a menacing crocodile. During the parade, food is thrown to the participants particularly "balut", duck embryo, the famous local delicacy.